Kgalagadi: Nossob
Cape ground squirrels are abundant in the campsite at Nossob, and they’re after your rusks!
Nossob is easily the most popular camp in the Kgalagadi. Most regular visitors would agree: If you haven’t camped at Nossob, you haven’t been to the Kgalagadi.
Nossob 101:
The campsite at Nossob has lots of shade and is right next to the swimming pool.
Stands: It’s difficult to pick a favourite stand. If I had to choose, I would say the stands next to the fence on the river bed side win by a squirrel’s whisker. However, there are no power points.
Be careful of the big camel thorn tree south of the ablution block.
After a downpour in summer, the kids will need water wings just to get out of the tent! In the dry winter months it’s a prime spot.
Of the stands with power points, I like the ones under the honey mesquite trees on the western side of the ablution block, because the ground is level and there is more than enough shade throughout the day.
Is it caravan-friendly? The road between Twee Rivieren and Nossob is notoriously corrugated, so rather leave the Jurgens at home. You’d be better off towing an off-road trailer or a bush wagon.
Ablution facilities: When I visited, the ablution block in the middle of the camp wasn’t cleaned regularly. On the women’s side there are five toilets, three showers and a small bath, and on the men’s side two toilets, four showers and two urinals. Both sides have enough basins with big mirrors.
Other facilities: Next to the ablution block there is a first-class washroom with six standard sinks for dishes, eight deep basins for clothes, eight plug points, a place for ironing and a washing line.
Animal visitors? By day, Cape ground squirrels roam the camp and lots of birds look for water and food between the stands.
Occasionally there are Cape cobras in the camp. Don’t, under any circumstances, try to catch or kill a snake – a Cape cobra is as quick as lightning and deadly. Rather call the camp staff to assist.
At night black-backed jackals will carry off everything from shoes to plastic buckets – so pack your gear away before you go to bed.
Cost: The camping rate is R135 a night for the first two people for
a stand without a power point and R150 with a power point. It’s R48 a night for each additional adult and R24 per child to a maximum of six people.
I don’t do camping… A night at one of the two guest houses in the camp costs R1 045 for four people. There are also 17 chalets that sleep two, three or six people, starting from R530 a night (base rate).
Contact: 054 561 2000 (park); www.sanparks.org
(Note: Prices accurate in August 2010)
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Which are the best game drive routes?
Three powerful lionesses stalk a herd of red hartebeest near Kaspersdraai.
From Nossob’s two gates there are only two roads worth taking: one heads north in the direction of Union’s End, and one south towards Twee Rivieren.
Remember to get a permit for your game drive from reception before you leave. Hand it in when you get back to camp.
In the morning
(72 km, about 4 hours)
Photographer’s delight
Get up before first light and walk to the waterhole hide – you might see lions slaking their thirst. Wait until the traffic at the gate has thinned before you drive north to Bedinkt waterhole.
Lions are often seen on this stretch of road and you can consider yourself unlucky if you don’t see a black-backed jackal.
Just before you get to Cubitje Quap waterhole there’s a lookout point on the left where you can shoot some great sunrise pictures.
Cubitje Quap is ideal for morning photography. Huge flocks of sandgrouse usually come to drink between 7 am and 10 am, and they’re watched very closely by peregrine and rednecked falcons. Blue wildebeest frequent the open plains just north of the waterhole, and often drink at Kwang waterhole.
Turn around at Bedinkt and keep an eye out for Brant’s whistling rats and striped field mice next to the road as you drive slowly back to camp.
Out all day
(280 km, about 9 hours)
All the way to the end
The route to Union’s End, the point where South Africa, Namibia and Botswana meet, is a good day trip from Nossob. It’s about 140 km one way, so you need to be out of bed early.
On the way, keep your eyes peeled for lions and birds of prey like secretarybirds and lappetfaced vultures, especially at Polentswa waterhole.
Lijersdraai picnic site, almost halfway to Union’s End, is a good place to stretch your legs. Just remember that there’s no water, so bring your own to drink and wash your hands.
Scan the thorn trees in the Kannaguass and Grootkolk area for leopards taking a nap, and the open plains south of Union’s End for cheetahs.
Late afternoon
(30 km, about 2 hours)
Drive a loop
Drive south and see if you can spot a red hartebeest near Rooikop waterhole. Then follow the signs for Marie se Draai. Bateared and Cape foxes are often spotted on this loop road.
Park yourself at the waterhole for the golden hour, when the sun is low in the sky. It’s a good spot for late-afternoon photography.
There’s a good chance that springbok and gemsbok will come to drink and, if you’re lucky, a pride of lions or a cheetah might show up, too.
What else is there to do?
Rather go on your own afternoon drive and spend an hour or two in the hide after sunset.
The hide at the Nossob waterhole is designed in such a way that the bustle of the camp doesn’t disturb the wildlife.
Spy on the animals
Lots of animals visit the waterhole at Nossob, and the well-designed hide that overlooks it is one of the best in South Africa.
It’s spacious, it’s close to the water, and there’s a spotlight that illuminates the waterhole until the generator is turned off. Insects flock to the light, with black-backed jackals and spotted eagle-owls not far behind…
The waterhole and the hide is relatively far away from the camp, so the noise doesn’t disturb the animals. Look for the entrance between the camp’s two gates. You have to walk through a long tunnel to get into the hide. And don’t forget your camera.
Take a walk
Nossob is the only camp in Kgalagadi with a walking trail.
The sandy path begins at the northern side of the camp near the shop. It’s marked with white rocks and is only 800 m long – you’ll easily complete it within half an hour.
Next to the path there are signs with information about the fauna and flora of the area. Unfortunately a few of the signs have fallen over.
At the top of the path there’s a great view over the Nossob River bed – a good place to watch the sun rise. Birdwatchers should spot cardinal woodpecker, Kalahari scrub-robin and southern yellow-billed hornbill.
Watch a sandgrouse explosion
On most mornings there’s an impressive flying display at Cubitje Quap waterhole, about
10 km north of Nossob.
Just after sunrise, hundreds of Cape turtle-doves descend on the waterhole. Then, at about 8 am, huge flocks of Namaqua and Burchell’s sandgrouse come to drink.
The birds swarm around the waterhole a few times before they land on the edge. They drink quickly for a few seconds, then take off again.
It’s the peregrine and red-necked falcons that keep them on their toes – these birds of prey sit and watch from the nearby camel thorn trees, ready to launch a surprise attack on a fat sandgrouse.
Jackals also occasionally try their luck.
Remember, if you park too close to the waterhole, the sandgrouse won’t show up in large numbers and the falcons will hesitate to come closer.
In the rainy season there will probably be fewer sandgrouse, as the freshwater pools in the veld will lure them away.
Go on a night drive (or don’t)
I went on a night drive and I was disappointed. It felt rushed, as if the guide just wanted to get back to the camp. However, we did see springhares, Cape and bat-eared foxes as well as a spotted eagle-owl and a southern white-faced scops-owl.
Rather go for a lateafternoon drive and spend an hour or two in the hide after sunset. But if you’re dead-set on seeing nocturnal animals like porcupines and maybe even a leopard, the night drive is probably your only option.
Cost: R145 per person for 2½ to 3½ hours.
Tick off these birds
In the camp: Nossob is famous for pearl-spotted owlets (1). During the day the owlets take cover deep in the honey mesquite trees – like the one in front of reception. These owlets are active just after sunset, but turn off your camera’s flash when you take a photo.
Tame red-headed finches (2) and violet-eared waxbills quench their thirst at the cement bases under the taps in the campsite. Also try to spot a groundscraper thrush looking for insect snacks between the tents.
At Cubitje Quap: Besides the swarms of sandgrouse that gather here early in the morning, this waterhole attracts an impressive variety of birds of prey during the warmer hours of the day, like secretarybirds (3) and lappet-faced and white-backed vultures.
Between Nossob and Kwang: On the open plains next to this stretch of road you might spot the rare double-banded courser (4). Also look for Kalahari scrub-robin under the camel thorns next to the road.
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