Pack binoculars to scan the veld and the waterhole.

Kieliekrankie Wilderness Camp is a quieter alternative to Twee Rivieren if you want to explore the Nossob and Auob river beds.

The view from the wooden deck of one of the selfcatering units at Kieliekrankie is of red dunes covered in golden-yellow grass, stretching as far as the eye can see.
Kieliekrankie is the most southern wilderness camp in the Kgalagadi (about 50km north of Twee Rivieren, next to the lower dune road) and is built on top of one of the highest dunes in the park. Because all four huts at Kieliekrankie face south, there’s some shade on the deck throughout the day. You can also watch the sunset while you braai on the deck in the evening. It’s a quiet, isolated spot far from the traffic in the Nossob and Auob river beds.
There’s a waterhole in front of the units, down below, but sadly it doesn’t see much animal traffic because the camp is so deep in the dune field, away from the river beds. You might see a steenbok or a lone fox coming to drink, or even a brown hyena. Your best chance would be in the early morning before it gets light.
Nevertheless, Kieliekrankie is still a good base for game viewing: It’s just 5km from the Auob River, so you can explore the area between the Batulama and Monro waterholes long before the visitors from Twee Rivieren show up.
What’s more, the camp is only half an hour’s drive from the Nossob River bed, so you can try to find the lions near Kij Kij in the morning before it gets too hot.

Best game drive routes
IN THE MORNING 136km in total; 4–5 hours
Drive east until you’re in the Nossob River bed (34km; about 30 minutes); the sun will be in your eyes, so be careful not to run over an ostrich or a kori bustard.
However, it’s worth the squint, because the area between the Rooiputs and Melkvlei waterholes is lion country and there’s a good chance of a sighting in the early morning.
Drive north until you reach Melkvlei (12km; about 30 minutes) and look for cheetahs. Turn around at the picnic site and drive to the Samevloeiing waterhole (46km; about 90 minutes). This is one of the best roads to see lions, leopards and cheetahs. Birds of prey are also common.
Drive back to Kieliekrankie via the Auob River (44km; about 90 minutes) and keep your eyes peeled for meerkats just north of the Houmoed waterhole.

LATE AFTERNOON 60km in total; 21/2–3 hours
Drive west until you’re in the Auob River and explore the area between the Gemsbokplein and Rooibrak waterholes.
Most of Twee Rivieren’s traffic will be in the vicinity of the Houmoed and Monro waterholes, so this section of road should be relatively quiet.
Springbok, gemsbok and blue wildebeest are common, and you might also see a cheetah. Look for the Cape fox den, 3,7km north of Gemsbokplein waterhole, on the river bed side of the road.
Try to be back at Kieliekrankie in time for sunset. This is also when the common barking gecko does its thing – don’t miss it!

The bungalows at Bitterpan share a braai area.

Lions often visit the parking area at Bitterpan. This young lioness started to gnaw on a bakkie's tyre.

It’s not only the view that gives Bitterpan that wilderness feel – sometimes a lion or two might keep you imprisoned in your cabin! A pride prowled the edge of the camp during both days that I was there.
Even though there’s some stiff competition, I think this little camp has the best views in the Kgalagadi. There’s a salt pan right next to the camp and you’re always expecting something to happen, especially with the lions close by.
The camp is far enough from the edge of the pan to appreciate the dune field in all its glory, but close enough to spot a red hartebeest or a lion on the opposite side with a pair of binoculars.
In the late afternoon, climb the camp’s tower and watch the sunset – it’s a sight you won’t easily forget. Just ask the camp supervisor before you do – if the steps are loose, you need to use a ladder. Unfortunately you can barely see the waterhole from the camp – it’s far away on the edge of the pan, with a dead tree blocking a part of the view. However, now and again it does attract a few gemsbok or a lone red hartebeest.
The best “waterhole” to keep an eye on is the camp supervisor’s birdbath, behind the parking lot. During my visit, lions came to drink here twice and both times the supervisor was ready and waiting with his spotlight.
From time to time African wild cats, leopards and brown hyenas also come to drink from the birdbath.

Give the Hilux a break
Bitterpan is not a good place for game drives; it’s more the kind of camp where you stay in, put your feet up and relax.
The only way to get to the camp is via a 53km, one-way sand road from Nossob (only 4x4s are allowed), and the dune tops are badly rutted for the first 30km. Budget at least 31/2 hours to get there. From Bitterpan there are two options for game drives: Head 44km south-west through the dune field to the Auob River bed near Mata-Mata, or 12km south to intersect with the upper dune road – both one-way.
It’s impossible to do a quick drive. Because of the one-way roads, you have to drive the whole 150km circular route via Morevet waterhole, Dikbaardskolk waterhole and Nossob. However, there is a very short 15km route in the shape of a triangle to the east of the camp, but don’t expect to see much game in the dune field.
My advice? Stay in camp. Take your binoculars and a good book, enjoy the silence and look for game at the pan, the waterhole and the supervisor’s birdbath.
On a good day you should see gemsbok, red hartebeest and a black-backed jackal or two at the waterhole.
There’s a lot for birders to get excited about too: Look for forktailed drongo, familiar chat and scaly-feathered finch.