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Durban: Sip coffee at a sidewalk cafe


Glenwood area is Durban"s trendiest spot.
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Glenwood area is Durban's trendiest spot.

Trendy spot
Durbanites always say Durban is going places: “You just wait and see, bru! Things are happening.” And as far as the old Glenwood area (about 5 km from the CBD) is concerned, it’s absolutely true. Over the past few years, this neighbourhood has begun to transform itself into a trendy hub along the lines of Kloof Street in Cape Town and Melville in Joburg. Musos, artists and young designers have set up shop in some of the beautiful old Victorian houses around upper Davenport Road. It’s the kind of place where you can do a yoga class, eat a Moroccan meal at Yossi’s or browse in an art gallery.

Shop till you drop
My first stop is at IKhaya, next to Yossi’s on Davenport Road, where I find shopkeeper Brandon Brett behind the counter. “We’re all about celebrating local artistic creations and being environmentally friendly,” he says. He points to some carvings made from jacaranda trees: “They’re popular,” he says. But they’re not cheap. A miniature carved springbok head costs R200.

A cup of Java

Across the road, at Star Café, I catch the aroma of freshly brewed coffee. On the stoep, I sit back and watch the passing parade.An avocado seller walks by, readjusts the baby on her back and then continues. An elderly man bumbles along with his golden Labrador. He pauses to look at the second-hand books at a pavement stall before he’s tugged along.

Bits and bobs
At the back of Star Café is Euphoria, where you can sift through clothes by local designers or spend hours in a corner at Last Chance Books, which also has old records and second-hand
cameras. A vintage Voigtlander camera catches my eye, but with a price tag of R800 I’ll have to wait for my next pay cheque.


Where?
Glenwood is about 4 km south-west of the CBD. Heading west on the N3, turn off onto Berea road South, and then left into Cato Road. After about 1 km, turn left again into Davenport road.

Go! says: The Artscafé at the KZNSA Gallery on Bulwer Road has a kiddies menu and play area and serves delicious meals.

Shop some more

Essenwood flea market
You’ll find anything and everything at this popular market in Essenwood Park: vintage jewellery, funky artwork and second-hand books.
When? Saturdays.
Where? Corner of Essenwood and St Thomas roads, Berea.


Victoria Street Market

From saris to spices with scary names (Mother-in-law’s hellfire, anyone?) the Victoria Street Market is the place to go for all things Indian.
When? Monday to Saturday 8 am to 6 pm, Sunday 10 am to 4 pm.
Where? Corner of Queen and Victoria streets, CBD.

(Note: Prices accurate in February 2010)


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Comments

Submitted on 3 September 2010 | 10:43:54

i definitely think that durban is going places! i think this was part of a recent print article right? i did read it while i was in durban for a wedding, and i must say that i was unfortunately disappointed by euphoria. i was much more impressed by the green bean cafe opposite- which has a vintage vinyl set playing oldies, and decent cappuccino. another place in glenwood that i think deserves a mention is corner cafe, which has amazing food. a good friend that has recently moved to durban also raves about freedom cafe, which is in greyville. as for markets, the i <3 market is happening this weekend, and takes place the first weekend of every month.

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