Kruger National Park: Shingwedzi
There aren’t many game-viewing roads around Shingwedzi, but you’re likely to see elephant and buffalo in the river bed.
The best stand in Shingwedzi’s campsite is in the eastern corner, right by the fence, under an enormous umbrella thorn tree.
Shingwedzi is in the north of the Kruger National Park and is further from an entrance gate than any other camp in the park.
Shingwedzi 101
Camp among the birds
There are few campsites in the Kruger National Park where you can see and hear as many birds as at Shingwedzi. They seem tamer here, and you can’t help noticing the variety of calls.
Stands: The stands at Shingwedzi are large and level, and there’s plenty of shade. The campsite borders are unfortunately not well demarcated, but apart from that there’s little to complain about in this big campsite.
My favourite stand is in the eastern corner by the fence under a big umbrella thorn. Here you have enough shade to park a Boeing 747 in and you’re about 20 steps from the ablution block. The stands are arranged in such a way that you have a neighbour on only one side.
There are also a few nice stands on the north-western side next to the pool, but you might not like the bustle at
the pool.
Bathrooms: There are two quite large ablution blocks – one in the east and more or less in the middle next to the rondavels. So you’ll have to walk far to the bathroom if you camp next to the pool.
Both the men’s and women’s bathrooms have showers and baths.
For men it’s a bit difficult to shave in the eastern ablution block, because its mirrors aren’t directly above the basins.
Other facilities: There’s a laundry next to the eastern ablution block and there are small camp kitchens with basins, hot plates and urns in a few places in the campsite.
The pool borders on the camping area.
Feathered friends: Most birds in Shingwedzi’s campsite are tamer than your average domestic cat. African mourning dove, greater blue-eared starling, fork-tailed drongo, southern black flycatcher and violet-eared waxbill are common. In summer woodland kingfishers call continuously in the campsite.
Other visitors: Elephants sometimes come right up to
the fence.
Uninvited guests: Beware the poisonous sac spiders in the bathrooms. They like hiding in the folds of the shower curtains. They’re tiny and light in colour, with big, dark jaws.
Cost: R150 per stand for two people and R48 extra per person – up to six people.
I don’t do camping
Shingwedzi has a large variety of self-catering accommodation. The cheapest option is a rustic hut that sleeps three – you share communal kitchen and bathroom facilities – at R310 per night for two people and R96 extra for a third person.
(Note: Prices are accurate for February 2009)
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Pick a route
In summer, when the Shingwedzi River is in flood, crocodiles are very active. In the winter months you can see them lying in the sun on the sandbanks.
There aren’t many game-viewing roads around Shingwedzi, but you’re likely to see elephants on the riverbed.
Early Morning (65 km; about 3 hours)
Exit via the main entrance in the early morning and turn left at the T-junction. Follow the H1-6 tar road for about 13 km and look for spotted hyenas, which sometimes lie next to the road near the João waterhole (±15 km, 30 minutes). Turn right onto the S52 Red Rocks detour and make sure you stop at the Red Rocks lookout just after turning onto the gravel road. You’re allowed to get out of your car here. The view of the red rocks is best early in the morning when the rising sun is behind you. Drive the full length of the S52 and also stop at the Tshanga lookout near the Bateleur private camp. You’re allowed to get out and clamber over the rocks, but watch for snakes and mind your step on the loose stones. There are tables for a picnic lunch and a long drop. You can expect to see elephant, buffalo, zebra and giraffe on the S52. There are crocodiles in the Shingwedzi River, and leopards are sometimes seen around here (±45 km, 2½ hours). Head back to camp on the
H1-6 (5 km, 10 minutes).
Out all day (119 km; 9 hours)
Get up early and follow the H1-7 tar road north to the southern turn-off of the S56 Mphongolo Loop (9 km, 20 minutes).
If you follow the S56 all the way, look for buffalo in the river bed. You might also see elephant and the shy Sharpe grysbok.
In the early morning, spotted hyena and leopard might also put in an appearance, although they’ll be well camouflaged in the dense riverine bush.
This is arguably the most scenic river road in all of Kruger – drive slowly and enjoy the beautiful surroundings (31 km, 3 hours).
Turn left onto the H1-7 tar road and drive north to where the S58 turns off to the left. If you’re lucky you may see cheetahs on the open plains (18 km, 1 hour).
Drive to the Dzundzwini lookout and back to the H1-7 tar road (8 km, 30 minutes). Follow the H1-7 all the way back to Shingwedzi. Look for roan antelope, tsessebe and eland near the Babalala picnic site (this is an excellent lunch stop) and the Boyela waterhole (±53 km, 4 hours).
Late afternoon (±40 km, 3 to 4 hours)
When the Shingwedzi River is in flood, exit via the camp’s back gate and turn left onto the S135. Stop next to the drift and watch the waterfowl and crocodiles trying to fish. It’s quite a spectacle.
Keep your eyes open for giant herons, great egrets, green-backed herons and hamerkops. Sometimes elephants also come here to drink.
If the river is dry, drive out the same gate, but carry on straight along the S50 and explore the first 20 km of the road and turn around again.
It is a good idea to linger for some time at the bird hide at the Kanniedood Dam.
What else is there to do?
Keep your eyes open around the stormwater drains; female hyenas often hide their pups in them.
Elephants often come right up to Shingwedzi’s fence.
Use your senses on a morning walk
The best way to appreciate the veld is to go for a morning walk with field guides Matt Burnett and Bishop Shilowa near the Mashagadzi waterhole, south of Shingwedzi.
Use all your senses. Smell the fresh elephant dung near a muddy pool; listen for the grunt of a Verreaux’s eagle-owl and the racket that rollers make; feel how smooth an elephant can rub a tree trunk; see an empty tortoise shell, a golden orb-web spider and a myriad of spoor; and taste berries that Matt guarantees are not poisonous.
Don’t expect to see many animals. But you will experience the diversity of the veld.
Who can do the morning walk? Anyone who can manage a walk to the corner café.
How long? About 3 hours.
Cost: R270 per person
Go on a night game drive
Of all the game drives offered at Shingwedzi, I prefer the night drive. You often see spotted hyenas and occasionally a civet or leopard. On our drive we spend a while with a family of spotted hyenas and see the tiny Sharpe grysbok near the camp. The guide also stops on the bridge over the Shingwedzi River so we can admire the stars, and points out a few constellations.
How long? About 2 hours.
Cost: R120 per person
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Yellow-billed storks sometimes fish in the drift near Shingwedzi’s back gate.
You don’t have to leave camp to practise your birding photography – Shingwedzi’s birds are quite tame.
Shingwedzi is in the north of the Kruger National Park and is further from an entrance gate than any other camp in the park (about 70 km from Punda Maria and 137 km from Phalaborwa gates).
There are only a handful of game-viewing drives in the camp’s vicinity, but most of them go through dense riverine forest where loads of animals roam. Buffalo and elephant are especially common.
Even better than the roads is the camp itself. Shingwedzi is big, but much less crowded than Skukuza and Lower Sabie in the south. Here you’ll definitely be able to relax.
The restaurant looks out over the Shingwedzi River.
A wide variety of bird species occur in this area, and a few rare species have been spotted, such as the thrush nightingale. Ask the guides where in the camp you should look for specific birds.
There’s a small shop and a cafeteria. You can also fill up with fuel, do your washing at the laundry and jump in the pool.
Look in the book at reception to see which animals other guests saw near the camp, and note your own lion sighting.
Related articles:
Kruger National Park: Berg-en-Dal
Kruger National Park: Satara
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