Early morning
(52 km; 3½ hours)
Turn right at the crossroads outside the gate and head north on the H1-6 tar road. Look for baboon and waterbuck on the first 3 km stretch. As soon as you cross the Letaba Bridge (where you’re allowed to get out of your car), the veld opens up and you can expect to see elephant and zebra. I’ve even seen cheetah and leopard here in the early morning. Drive to the H15 gravel road turn-off (18 km; 1 hour), turn right in the direction of the Giriyondo border post and head for the Makhadzi picnic spot with its lovely fever trees (8 km; 30 minutes). Here, you can buy candleholders made of tin cans from the caretaker for between R20 and R25 each.  Drive back along the same route (26 km; 90 minutes).

All day
(100 km; 5½ hours with no stops)
Drive straight across the cross­roads and then turn right onto the first gravel road, the R131. This long, straight road will take you all the way to Phalaborwa Gate (47 km; 2½ hours).
I’ve seen male lions, hyenas and side-striped jackals on one drive. Elephant and giraffe also love this type of veld. Keep your eyes peeled for jeep tracks that turn off the road. They have a 30 km speed limit – the so-called Category D roads that may only be driven in a vehicle with high ground clearance. (Get a map of all these roads at the gate).
If you get as far as Phalaborwa Gate you can nip out of the park to stock up on wine and wood at the Spar that’s only 2 km away. From the gate, drive east on the H-9 for 7 km and then rn right onto the 8 km-long S51 circular drive. This passes the Sable Hide – a good place to see marabou storks, African spoonbills and raptors. Drive back to Letaba on the
H-9 tar road – you might spot buffalo (about 53 km; 3  hours).

Late afternoon
(35 km; about 3 hours)
Turn right at the crossing outside the camp. Drive to the S95 and turn right (4 km; 10 minutes). The S95 is only 4 km long, but it’s one of my favourite detours – not only because it meanders along the Letaba River but also because it’s fabulous leopard country.
Take it slowly (4 km; 30  minutes). Turn right onto the H1-6, drive across the bridge and turn right again onto the S62 gravel road to the Engelhard Dam.
It’s a dead end with a few turn-offs. You have a good chance of seeing lion or even white rhino. Go all the way to the Engelhard Dam and back (20 km; 90 minutes). Drive back to camp on the H1-6 (6 km; 30  minutes).

Check out the big guys
If you’ve always been fascinated by elephants, a visit to the Elephant Hall, between reception and the restaurant, is mandatory. In the 1970s, seven impressive big tuskers, dubbed the Magnificent Seven, lived in the area. The tusks of six of them are on display here – among them Mafunyane, Shawu and João. Find out more about elephant evolution and behaviour, and their relationship with the environment. If you want to take home a reminder of your visit, buy the booklet entitled African Elephants & the Magnificent Seven; it costs R35.

Sleep in a hide
You can book the Sable Over­night Hide at the Sable Dam for one night (it’s about 43 km from Letaba). Make the booking through SANParks and then collect the keys, a grid, a light and bedding at Phalaborwa Gate. Take your own utensils, food, wood and water. Next to the hide is an encloseboma, where you can safely braai under the stars. Inside are nine beds with thick mattresses. It costs R325 for the first two people and R160 for each additional person (maximum of nine people). Even if there are only two of you, the hide is yours exclusively. You can move in half an hour before the gate closes and have to be out half an hour after it opens.
Just as I’d lit the braai fire, a pride of lions showed up at the dam. They roared all night long, right next to the hide. Heavenly!
Book: SANParks 012 428 9111 or Phalaborwa Gate 013 735 3547/8.

Turn off the main road
Nonokani is one of four day adventure trails in the Kruger. Only six 4x4s are allowed to drive it each day – first come, first served (book at Phalaborwa Gate). If you want to drive it early in the day, sleep over at Sable Hide, because then you are only 15 minutes from the gate (instead of the 90 minutes from Letaba). In summer the gate opens at 5.30 am. A trail map with 12 GPS points is supplied.
The trail starts just east of Masorini picnic site. The first 10 km to the Reënvoël Dam goes through open veld with impressive anthills.  Look for African fish-eagle, green-backed heron and Burchell’s coucal. Part of the route runs through mopane shrubveld along the Olifants River, which is really beautiful, but not ideal if you’re worried about scratching your vehicle.
Eventually the road turns away from the river and there are fewer animals, but near Sable Dam you might spot buffalo, lion and elephant.

Cost: R490 per vehicle.
Time and distance: About 54 km. At an average speed of 10 km/h you should give yourself at least 5 hours to complete the trail.
Tips: You may get out of your vehicle, but only if it’s safe. Take enough food and water along, and remember to report at the Phalaborwa Gate when you’ve completed the trail.

(Note: Prices accurate in February 2010)

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Kruger National Park: Berg-en-Dal