Ask these questions before you buy:

1. Where should I buy my bike?
Your bike dealer is like your dentist: You’re looking for a long-term relationship without too much pain. A mountain bike is a temperamental piece of equipment – it has to be serviced regularly and parts need to be replaced. And you’ll probably want to upgrade your bike as you improve. So buy your bike from a professional dealer where you can have it serviced rather than from a chain store.

2. What’s the right size?
You can damage your knees or your back, or literally get a pain in the neck if you ride a bike that is too small for you. Ask an experienced cycle dealer to check your height so that you buy a bike that is right for you.
Everybody’s body/arms/legs proportions are different (Michael Phelps is obviously not going to need the same size bike as, say, Tickey the Clown). Here are two guidelines:
Knees. Get someone to hold the bike up as you sit on the saddle and hold the handgrips. Your knees should be slightly bent when your foot is at its lowest point with your instep on the face of the pedal.
Arms. As you sit on the saddle, you should be able to reach the handlebars comfortably. Your arms should be comfortably flexed. Most women prefer a slightly more upright position than do men.

3. What about the shocks?
Almost all mountain bikes now come with front suspension – or shock absorbers. These save your wrists and stop your fillings from falling out on rough ground. Shocks improve not only your comfort level but also your bike’s road-holding ability.
Do you need a shock absorber at the back? Well, you’ll have a comfortable ride but they’re super expensive. Remember, also, that a rear shock stretches and contracts on the uphill, which is a waste of energy. To avoid this problem it’s useful to be able to stiffen the shocks by flicking a “lock-out” switch.

4. And clip-on pedals?
Serious cyclists have special shoes with cleats on their soles that clip onto the pedals. The advantage is that you can pull up as well as push down, which gives you more vooma on the uphill. 
Most beginners prefer ordinary pedals because you need confidence to ride with your feet locked in (unclipping takes about a second, but it takes only half a second to lose your dignity at the town’s busiest robot).
If you want the best of both worlds, consider investing in some plastic platforms that snap onto clip-on pedals (Shimano makes these). The one face of the pedal is like a normal bicycle pedal (for when you just want to ride down to the corner café to buy milk), and the other side accommodates your clip-on shoes.

5. V-brakes or disk brakes?
V-brakes are the old-style brakes that clamp the rim of the wheel when you grab the lever (or not, if the rims are wet…). Many mountain bikes now come fitted with disc brakes, which are more efficient but also more expensive. And if they do give trouble, they’re often tricky to repair. Avoid cheap disk brakes, which are more trouble than they’re worth.

6. Should I get tubeless tyres?
Once tubeless tyres are filled with a special puncture-sealing goo (like Sludge), you are less likely to get a flat tyre. On a rough road you can also ride with softer tyres (which gives you more grip and a more comfortable ride) without suffering a “snake bite” (pinch puncture) if the rim hits a rock. 
However, tubeless tyres are made from thicker rubber, so they are heavier than most tubed tyres. Top-of- the-range tubeless rims and tyres also cost a lot more.
 A good compromise is to buy tubed tyres and, if you become more serious about the sport, you can buy a conversion kit for about R710 (Stan’s Kit works well).

7. How much should I spend?
Right! Now for the Big Question... You could spend as little as R1 000 on a mountain bike, but don’t be surprised if Shaleen Surtie-Richards comes cycling past you on a delivery bike. Here are some guidelines:

Under R2 000
Basic bike; basic price. If you just want to take a leisurely pedal around a few blocks to give Sprint the border collie his daily run or to zip up to the Spar for some briquettes, a bike in this price bracket will be fine – and you should be able to ride on a decent dirt road.

R2 000 – R4 000
Hit the road, Jack. You want to do a little touring on tar roads and farm tracks through the Winelands or the forests of eastern Mpumalanga, so it’s best to get a bike with decent shock absorbers. You should get at least five years’ use out of a bike in this bracket.

R4 000 – R7 000:
The animal awakens. One sunny day, you’re pedalling along a forestry track when a steep footpath veers off on your left and a wild desire takes hold of you to take that path and race down the mountainside!
A mountain bike in this price bracket has more or less the same parts as a cheaper one, but each part is of better quality and design, and thus more expensive. The bike has to survive more abuse than a road bike, so you need to pay a bit more for durability.
Over R5 000 and you’ll probably encounter hydraulic disk brakes. These work better than the V-brakes or cheaper disk bakes.

R7 000 plus:
This could get serious… Two nights ago you dreamt that you were first across the finish line in the final stage of the 2010 Cape Epic…
You’re clearly ready for a bike with a strong yet feather-light frame, and wheels that can take a bashing, as well as front suspension and gears that will allow you to climb a steep ascent with ease.
Above R10 000 you will find the first decent dual-suspension bikes, with shock absorbers both at the front and the back (these are called “soft tail”). If you want to tackle serious mountain bike races, you probably won’t get away with spending less than R10 000.

1. Avalanche AX 175
Basic buy
This is a decent, basic set of wheels that is a slight step up from your old school bike. It has tubed tyres and alloy V-brakes, but no suspension. The frame is made of steel but the wheel rims of aluminium, so they’re lighter and won’t rust.
Price: About R1 375.
Contact: Pretoria 012 653 2245; Johannesburg 011 782 7313; Durban 031 312 2559;
Cape Town 021 425 6830; www.dragons.co.za
Go! says: Like Wilson’s toffees – cheap but tough. Fine for a beginner.

2. Silverback Alpine
Mountain goat
Silverback is a local bike assembler (the parts are imported, but the bikes are put together here in South Africa), and its products offer excellent value for money.
The Alpine is one of Silverback’s entry-level models. It features some basic kit that includes V-brakes and tubed tyres. You also get some parts you’d only expect to find on a more expensive bike, such as front shock absorbers (Suntour XCM with “lockout”) and gears (Shimano Deore 27-speed).
Price: About R3 000.
Contact: Johannesburg 011 888 2381; Bloemfontein 051 433 4968; Durban 031 312 0573; PE 041 581 7441; Cape Town 021 671 5008; www.silverbacklab.com
Go! says: You can’t go wrong with a Silverback. You get quality at an entry-level price.

3. Gt Avalanche 1.0
Solid as a rock
Why does this bike cost R4 000 more than the Alpine? Well, because it’s built from tougher, higher-quality components and an aluminium frame. Does it make a difference? Perhaps it’s not noticeable straight away, but you won’t have to hang at the back of the pack on Naudé’s Nek Pass.
Price: About R7 000.
Contact: Omnico 021 691 0110; www.omnico.co.za. Call Omnico to enquire about dealers.
Go! says: If you are just starting to get serious about cycling and willing to pay for a sturdier bike, this is a good choice.

4. Giant Halo 1
A comfortable ride
See that funny piston-like thing on the saddle post above the main gear cluster? That’s a rear shock absorber, which means a softer ride (and happier bum) when you’re tearing over bumpy terrain. But there’s more to the Halo 1 than extra comfort. It also has top-quality components, including Shimano hydraulic disc brakes – so it promises a noticeably faster, slicker ride.
Price: About R12 400
Contact: Pretoria 012 653 2245; Johannesburg 011 782 7313; Durban 031 312 2559;
Cape Town 021 425 6830; www.dragons.co.za
Go! says: If you’re looking for a full-suspension bike that isn’t going to cost the equivalent of the deposit on your next house, this is it!

Or you could buy second-hand, but read this first…
You could save thousands of rand and buy a top-quality bike second-hand if you know what to look for. Avron Sirin of Cycle Traders gives some advice on how to go about it.

Brand aid. Look for well-known frame brands, such as Cannondale, Giant, Trek and Specialized. These are still market leaders, simply because they’re well made. Look all over and under the frame for dents and for cracks, which most commonly start on the down-tube running down from the saddle.

Turn, turn, turn. Lie on the ground as someone holds the bike: Are the wheels in line? Turn each wheel to check for dings and buckles.

How old is the bike? Bike technology changes fast. If you buy a bike that’s older than, say, five years, you might struggle to find parts. The newer the better.

Check out the kit. “Shimano” and“Sram” are the current two top names in gears, brakes, pedals and hubs. But just because it says Shimano, it doesn’t mean that you’re getting the top of the range. Shimano is a brand name, and has 10 levels of products, from bargain-basement to top-notch. They are all Shimano, but the difference in price can be tens of thousands. 
Shimano“Acera”, for instance, is made for that round-the-block bomber. “Alivio” is the next level up. In the “Deore” range you only start to get serious (most top riders in the Cape Epic will use “Deore XTR” parts).
With Sram, it’s easier to work it out. It simply numbers its range (from bottom-up) 4, 5, 7, 9 and the top-of-the-range“0”.

B is for“bonus”. See if the bike is fitted with any extras. If it has a good set of tubeless tyres, this could be worth thousands. A good set of hydraulic disc brakes would set you back between R3 000 and R4 000. These figures help gauge the value of your purchase.

Comb the market. There is often a rash of bargains after a major cycling event, as impulsive entrants decide cycling is too much like hard work, and the keen beans sell their old bikes to upgrade. 
Look in your local newspaper classifieds or free-ad sheets, or on websites such as Gumtree ( www.gumtree.co.za) and CapeAds (http://capetown.capeads.co.za/). Cycle Traders couriers bikes all over the country, and can advise you – call 021 448 0812 or e-mail casirin@mweb.co.za.

Get a second opinion. Before closing the deal on a second-hand bike, ask the staff at a good cycle shop for advice (after all, they will get your business if they do you the favour). They can tell you if it’s a fair price, if the bike is the right size for you, and what it could cost to make it roadworthy.

Go! says: If the tyres are flat, it could be a sign the owner has lost interest and wants the bike out of the garage.

As with fly-fishing and golf, there are lots of extra goodies you’ll need to buy. Steel yourself, because you’ll probably have to fork out for the following too…

1. Helmet. This is a nonnegotiable. Get a good helmet that fits properly (about R400).

2. Lights. You get a special flickering LED light that clips onto the saddle at the back or the handlebars at the front, which will make you more visible to motorists (between R60 and R100 for one).

3. Gloves. Good gloves (with gel inside them) will improve your grip on the handlebars without constricting your circulation. They will also prevent you from getting a “roastie” if you fall palm down (about R200).

4. Neon clothing. You get a special luminescent belt that makes you more visible to motorists and other cyclists (about R190).

5. Water bottle with holder. You should make sure that you drink water often, even if you’re only going for a 10km ride (a bottle costs about R50). A Camelbak (a brand of hydration bladder) will cost you about R260 and works well on a longer outing.

6. Cycling shorts. These are padded in strategic places. You get high-tech pairs with ventilation slots and instant drying material. Indola is a good brand (about R130).

7. A windbreaker. Look for a jacket that “breathes” and has a lining that wicks sweat away from the skin (about R350).

8. Repair kit. You will need a spare tube, tyre levers and a puncture repair kit. Keep it all in a saddle bag (R70 to R100 all in).

9. Pump. Without a pump, you’ll be left high and dry if you have a flat. You get a lightweight one that clips onto the frame (about R110).

10. Cycling shoes. These have cleats that clip onto the pedals (about R1 000 for the pedals and shoes).

11. Cyclometer. You want to know how far and how fast you’re going (R100).

12. Sunglasses. You could use your normal sunglasses or you could buy special wrap-arounds that won’t mist up when you work up a sweat (R1 000).

13. Bike rack. Take your bike on holiday with you; it’s the best way to get around. Thule, Holdfast, Caddy and Trapezium are established brands (from R900).

Tip. Negotiate with the salesperson, who should throw in a few extras for the price of the bike.
– Daneel Knoetze

Been splashing through muddy puddles? Keep your bike spic ‘n’ span like this.

1. Grab the hose. Start by hosing down the bike, and be very careful to avoid spraying water directly onto the working parts, in particular the gears and wheel hubs. The water can get inside things such as wheel bearings and cause problems later on.
Ideally, aim the jet of water onto the frame and tyres, and let the spray from this wash the rest of the bike.
Tip: To lift really stubborn dirt, try a product called Motorex Bike Clean (a 500 ml spray bottle costs about R150).

2. Scrub. It’s vital that all working parts, especially the chain and gear clusters, are completely free of dirt and grit to prevent excessive wear of the metal. Use a toothbrush to clean these areas properly.
Tip: Buy a dedicated chain cleaner. It clips over the chain and has an internal brush – then you turn the pedal the chain is pulled over the brush, scrubbing each link. Try the Park Tool Cyclone Chain Scrubber (about R350).

3. Lube. Steer clear of oil-based products such as Q20, which attract grit. Rather get a dedicated, wax-based bike lube such as White Lightning or Squirt (about R65 for a 120ml bottle).

(Note: Prices accurate in May 2010)

If you know some of the cycling lingo, you’ll be able to follow the salesman.

Chain wheel. The big set of gears at the front where the pedals are fixed to the cranks. Most mountain bikes have three chain wheels.

Cluster or sprocket. The smaller set of gears at the back wheel. There could be seven or nine.

Derailleur. A sexy French for the little arm that “derails” the chain from one gear to another, at the front or back of the drive train.

Granny gear. The lowest gear that will get even Nanna up the steepest hill. All new cyclists need a granny gear.

Geometry. This refers to the way a bike is designed. Most modern bikes are “compact” in geometry, meaning the top tube slopes down towards the back of the bike, bringing the wheels closer together.

Hard tail or soft tail. A hard tail has no suspension on the back wheel; a soft tail does.

Hydraulics. Disk brakes that use special liquid brake fuel, like in a car.

Anatomical saddle. For men, saddles have a slit or a soft region to allow circulation to the nether regions. Without this, after a long day in the saddle you might not know if you are Arthur or Martha (Martha: See “Women’s saddle” below).

Women’s saddle. It is designed with weight-bearing points a little further apart, because a woman’s pelvis is designed that way.

Brain bucket. A helmet.