Rough seas and numerous river crossings are part of the Otter. This picture was taken on the third day, as we’re approaching the Elandsbos River mouth.
The first thing Dean Joubert did after getting home from hiking the Otter last year was to book another hike on the trail and convince a few friends to join him. This time, the trail had a few surprises in store for them.
I had to wait a year to get to do the Otter Trail a second time. I managed to gather a group of 12 and booked the trail for a week in February this year.
By the time we started packing, however, seven of our friends had pulled out, so five of us had the
trail all to ourselves. Our group consisted of me; my wife Yvette, an attorney; James Stride, who runs a factory in Richard’s Bay; and another couple, Frank Knight, who owns a credit management business, and his wife Cavim, a midwife.
Tucked into our packs with five days’ supplies, all the necessary paperwork and our maps was the trail emergency number – just in case…
Otter trail 101
Take it easy. The hike is not a race; stopping frequently and enjoying the rock pools along the way is part of the experience.
See more. Take a pair of goggles for the rock pools and binoculars for the birds and marine life.
Timing is everything. Pack a tide table, and time your departure so you get to the Bloukrans River at low tide.
A lifeline. The trail is well marked and there is cellphone coverage in places. Take a cellphone
along, but keep it switched off unless you need it.
4,8 kmDay 1Packhorses
Start to Ngubu
We walk down through the silent forest at Storms River Mouth towards the coast, passing a few sightseers along the way. Only once we’re past the waterfall do we settle into the hike.
We pick our way over large boulders and razor-sharp rocks – no small feat when you’re still getting used to standing upright with an extra 15 kg strapped to your back. I’m starting to have second thoughts about the two bottles of wine and all the camera equipment I’ve brought along. Mercifully, the day’s walk involves only three hours’ walking – and two swimming stops.
First thing we do once we’ve put down our packs at the overnight hut is to go for a swim in the sea.
The shower has only cold water, but its location can’t be beaten – a forest clearing underneath a night sky with innumerable impossibly bright stars.
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7,9 kmDay 2Up and down
Ngubu to Scott
The day starts with a steep climb to the Skilderkrans viewpoint, which overlooks the Ngubu huts. We leave our packs at the bottom so we can negotiate the undulating path along formidable cliffs more easily.
After enjoying the view, we pick up our packs and hike the two kilometre stretch to the Kleinbos River, where we take off our shoes and let the icy rooibos-coloured water soothe our aching legs.
Another kilometre of walking brings us to the lunch stop at Blue Bay. We leave our backpacks slightly off the path, take out our lunch parcels and water bottles, and walk down to the beach. This involves some clambering over rocks, but the beach is worth it.
A pair of African black oyster-catchers watches us warily from a distance.
After lunch, the path follows a rather steep climb to a spot overlooking Blue Bay, made more challenging by the fact that we are all feeling rather sleepy after lunch. The rest of the way to the overnight huts at Scott is an easy walk.
From the huts we have a view of the Geelhoutbos River Mouth, where seagulls come to bathe.
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7,7 kmDay 3Don't swallow!
Scott to Oakhurst
For the first 2 km we walk along the coastline. The surf is amazing; we reckon the waves must be up to 7 m high.
Last time I did the Otter, we got a surprise on this stretch of the trail. We found a rock pool and were keen for a swim, until we noticed dark shapes in the water – sharks swimming in a figure of eight near the bottom.
This time, the sea is too rough for us to even get close to the pool.
Next up is the mouth of the Elandsbos River, where we have no other choice but to get wet. Backpack in a survival bag on the head, we wade through the river, the water reaching up to our armpits.
We’ve been warned not to drink the water here, as the river runs through settlements upstream. Some water splashes into my eyes, and within two hours I can hardly open them. I end up virtually unable to use my right eye, and have to complete the hike without contact lenses and wearing dark glasses. (Back home I saw an ophthalmologist and had to take antibiotics to stop the infection. Fortunately it didn’t leave any permanent damage.)
The rest of the way the trail follows the coastline. There are some scary narrow sections with steep gradients on either side of the path.
Getting to the huts involves one more river crossing, and fortunately we manage this one without any mishaps.
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13,8 kmDay 4A tight spot
Oakhurst to André
The main worry of today’s hike is crossing the Bloukrans River – the mouth is about 200 m wide. The idea is to time your departure so you arrive at the river at low tide, when the water is low enough for you to wade across. Armed with our tide table, our packs by now much lighter, we’re confident we’ll make it.
We come across a puff adder, and later a seal fishing close to the shore. But then we get sidetracked just after the 7 km mark by a beautiful stream with a large pool in it, where we stop for a swim. We end up arriving at the Bloukrans River two hours after low tide. Already the only way to get across is to swim, but it seems risky, as the current is quite strong.
Instead, we take the escape route, a strenuous 800 m walk straight up a mountain face – definitely not the easy way out!
At the crest, after catching our breath, Frank phones the Parks Board’s emergency number. Half
an hour later we pile into a bakkie and get taken on a detour via the N2, past bungee jumpers on the
Bloukrans River Bridge, and back into the forest. We get dropped off about 2 km from André huts, which are on the beach, leaving us with only a gentle downhill amble.
Standing under the shower on the beach, I revel in the sunset over the bay.
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6,8 kmDay 5A piece of heaven
André to Nature's Valley
The last stretch requires a steep climb from the mouth of the Klip River to a viewing platform, from
where you walk on top of the cliff for about two hours.
We’re finally greeted by the splendid sight of Nature’s Valley. This has to be one of the most beautiful places in the world. It makes the last of your worries and stresses vanish.
Like the previous time, I wish I were fitter, but I also can’t wait to do it again!
Dean Joubert
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