Mozambique: Take the tar road to Tofo
There’s a reef that protects the bay so little ones can splash safely in the shallows and teenagers can snorkel.
Tofo, on the Inhambane Peninsula, is a popular stop for backpackers and South African students on a quest to see how far Granny’s old VW Fox can take them.
There’s a good tar road that goes all the way to the town, where you’ll find a couple of inexpensive lodges with camping facilities and great bars overlooking the beach. There are also lots of excellent family-friendly resorts on the peninsula but you’ll need a 4x4 to get to them.
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Swim with a whale shark
Tofo is one of the few places in the world where you’re almost guaranteed to see a whale shark. An ocean safari with Liquid Adventures at Bamboozi Beach Lodge ( www.liquidadventures.co.za) costs about R450 per person.
You’ll spend about two hours at sea looking for dolphins, humpback whales and, of course, whale sharks. To swim with one of these harmless ocean giants is an unforgettable experience.
Eat a pizza at Dino’s Beach Bar
Tofo is a party hotspot but Dino’s original beach bar is still the best. Eat a pizza, sip on a Tipo Tinto cocktail and end the night Tofo-style: lazing on the beach around a bonfire, contemplating the stars.
Watch the sunset
Inhambane is one of the most atmospheric coastal towns in Mozambique, with wide avenues and mouldy colonial buildings clad in bougainvillea. It’s about a 20-minute drive from Tofo.
Take a stroll along Avenida 3 De Fevereiro as the sun sets over the channel separating the Inhambane Peninsula from the mainland. Have an early seafood supper at Pensão Pahiça ( www.barralighthouse.com) overlooking the bay, as the dhows flit past in the last light of the day.
Catch a dhow to Maxixe
If it’s windy, a fun outing is to catch a local dhow to the town of Maxixe, across the bay from Inhambane. It shouldn’t cost more than R30 per person and takes about half an hour each way. Sit back in the sun and marvel at the skill of the sailors. If you’re lucky, a pod of dolphins will join you for the journey.
Dive at Manta Reef
Huge manta rays regularly congregate at Manta Reef, which makes it one of the most famous dive sites in the world.
Often you will see up to 10 rays on a single dive. One theory why they gather here is that it’s a sort of underwater Engen 1-Stop where smaller fish clean the parasites and other debris off their ‘wings’. You need to be an experienced diver with an advanced qualification. Expect to pay about R500 to dive there ( www.divingtofo.com).
Where to stay?
Family fun. Paindane Beach Resort
( www.paindane.com) is at the end of a 24 km sand road south of Tofo. You’ll need a 4x4 to get there but once you arrive you won’t need to leave. Camp (from R80 per person per day) or stay in a chalet (from R600 per day). There’s a reef that protects the bay so little ones can splash safely in the shallows and teenagers can snorkel.
Party central.Prepare yourself for some serious karaoke showdowns in the bar at Bamboozi
( www.bamboozibeachlodge.com). Camping starts at R100 per person and the A-frame chalets cost R550 in the off season.
Your own boss. There are lots of private houses in Tofo of varying degrees of luxury that can be rented on a self-catering basis. Visit
www.tofotravel.com
(Note: Prices accurate in June 2010)
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