The Sunshine Coast technically starts at Van Stadens River west of Port Elizabeth, but to me Kenton on Sea, or just Kenton, has always been the gateway to this stretch of coastline.
Everything on the Sunshine Coast is geared towards one thing: holidays. The brochures boast that you’ll experience more sunny days here than at any other seaside destination in the country.
Kenton 101
Stay over Burke’s Nest has a self-catering cottage for two people (provision can me made for four) with a fully equipped kitchen, jacuzzi in the bathroom, and a deck with a view of the Bushmans River. There is also a self-catering flat that sleeps six. Breakfast is available on request. Cost: R200 per person per night for the cottage. Contact: 046 648 1894; jlburke@border.co.za
More accommodation options… There is something for everyone in the area – have a look at www.kenton.co.za
Eat out
Get a brochure from Kenton Tourism that lists all the restaurants. I had a great fillet steak at Stanleys Country Restaurant, a Thai chicken at Daily Dose Art Cafe and a tramezzini at The Red Apple Farm Stall.
How to get there
Kenton is 126 km from Port Elizabeth and 25 km from Port Alfred.
Driving east from Port Elizabeth on the N2, take the R72 to Alexandria – the turn-off is near Nanaga Farm Stall. Drive through Alexandria. After 25 km you’ll cross the Bushmans River bridge. Turn right at the sign for Kenton on Sea.
Find out more
Chat to Erica or Liz at Kenton
Tourism, call 046 648 2411 or visit www.kenton.co.za
6 things to do in and around Kenton:
Walk on a secluded beach
Here are some prestine beaches to swim and snorkel in!
The Kariega and Bushmans rivers flow into the sea about 1 km from each other, and between the two river mouths a whole day of exploring awaits.
First, pay a visit to the Kenton Tourism office ( 046 648 2411) and pick up a brochure with a map that indicates every pool, inlet and rock formation along the coastline.
Follow the signs in town and park at one of three places: the “Blue Flag” Kariega Main Beach, Middle Beach, or near Corner Rocks on the Bushmans River’s side. Then start walking.
If you walk from Middle Beach in the direction of the Bushmans River, the sandstone slopes and rock formations will regularly make you stop for a photo.
Blue Pool and Mermaid’s Pool are good places for a swim and snorkelling. Try to identify Carriage Rock – which looks exactly as its name suggests.
Shelley Bay, a sheltered inlet and one of the most popular places to swim around here, is another highlight.
From Shelly Bay, walk over a dune and through a milkwood forest – which is in the Joan Muirhead Nature Reserve – back to your car.
Look for the remains of shell middens left behind by the first nomadic visitors to this coastline, and see if you can spot blue duiker or Cape grysbok.
GO! says: Best of all? There’s not an over-the-top beach house in sight.
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Hike to the Dias cross memorial
This cross was erected by the Portuguese explorers in the 14th or15th century.
The coastline must have looked quite intimidating when scurvy-ridden sailors first landed here, I think as I try to catch my breath.
My legs feel like jelly as I climb the steps to the memorial featuring a replica of the cross that Bartholomeu Dias planted here on 12 March 1488.
The original cross was only discovered in 1938; it’s on display in a library at Wits University. The memorial was erected on a high promontory at Kwaaihoek, between Boesmansriviermond and Boknes.
It’s a walk of about 4 km along the beach from the Bushmans River mouth and about 3,7 km from Boknesstrand. I chose the longer trail, of course.
At first, you walk on hard sand and later you cross high dunes. Keep to the contour of the dune, otherwise you’ll sink in up to your knees.
It is a quiet weekday morning, because aside from a few beach cleaners and a man walking his two dogs, it’s just me and the dramatic dune landscape rolling off to the horizon.
By the way, these dunes are anything but average. They border the Alexandria dune field, the largest in the southern hemisphere.
Sadly, the memorial has been neglected – it’s been vandalised and the brass plaques are missing, presumably stolen for scrap metal. But the view from the top (and the exercise) makes the walk well worth it.
GO! says: The Portuguese explorers erected many stone beacons along the coast in the 14th and 15th centuries. The Dias Cross in Luderitz is a well-known one.
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Ride 'em, cowboy!
Here experienced riders, as well as beginners can enjoy a gallop on the beach.
Ever since I read a Roy Campbell poem called “Horses on the Camargue” about wild horses galloping next to the sea, I have wanted to ride on the beach.
And here in Kenton my teenage dream is now coming true.
I’m no Gonda Beatrix, but luckily Jono Arnott’s Arabian horses are calm and well mannered.
I booked an-hour-and-a-half outing on the beach from Bushmans in the direction of Kwaaihoek.
More experienced riders can gallop on the hard sand, but I stick to a safer (but for me, just as exciting) canter.
On our way back, we come across the wreck of the Volo. If you want to hear some interesting stories, ask the locals about this Norwegian sailing ship that ran aground in the river mouth in 1886. Some will tell you that 62-year old Charles Butt, owner of a flowing white beard and the property on which Kenton developed, played the lead role in the rescue of 12 crew members (and the ship’s cat).
The other version of the story says that “Kaaljan” Scheepers, a farmer from Alexandria, rode into the waves on his horse like Wolraad Woltemade to help the distressed crew.
I guess we’ll never know what really happened, but what I do know as I sit here on a horse’s back at sunset is that the reality is sometimes even better than
the dream. Where? Drive on the R72 over the Bushmans River bridge in the direction of Alexandria. After 2 km, turn left at the Beachcomber road sign. Cost: R200 per person for an hour-and-a-half. Call ahead to book. Contact: 083 281 3322; www.beachcomberhorsetrails.co.za
GO! says: Jono also offers a longer ride with a picnic included; a multiday ride where you camp on
the beach; and a horseback safari through Sibuya Private Game Reserve, where you can see rhino, elephant and buffalo.
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Visit a sculpture garden
Drop in at Maureen's sculpture garden and you will see why it's been called "pudding for the soul".
I know, I know, going to an art exhibition while on holiday is not everyone’s cup of tea. But do drop in at Maureen Quin’s sculpture garden in Alexandria (about 25 km west of Kenton on the R72) – you’ll understand why someone described it as “pudding for the soul” in the visitor’s book.
Maureen has been a sculptor for 50 years and has held more than 40 solo exhibitions in South Africa and Europe. Some of her commercial work includes the sculpture of three dancing Cape minstrels at GrandWest Casino in Cape Town and the Arabian horse in front of the Gold Souk in Dubai.
In 1995 she began converting her garden in Alexandria into a sculpture garden with dozens of bronze sculptures, which include human and animal figures as well as abstract works.
Maureen will take you on a guided tour of her garden, gallery and studio. Then relax in the shade of a jacaranda with biscuits and home-made lemon syrup. Where? 5 Suid Street, Alexandria. Follow the “Quin” sign in the main street. When? Monday to Friday 9 am – 5 pm; Saturday 9 am – 1pm. Book in advance if you want to visit on a Saturday afternoon or a Sunday. Cost: R15 per person. Contact: 046 653 0121; www.quin-art.co.za
GO! says: On a day when the wind makes going to the beach a sand-blasting exercise, go have a glass of lemon syrup in Maureen’s garden.
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Do the poor man's game drive
These public roads run through game reserves, so you get a free grame drive on this trip!
There are a handful of private game reserves around Kenton, but if your budget won’t allow for a luxury safari, there is always the “poor man’s game drive”, as the locals call it.
You can do one of these discount game drives on the public roads that run through game reserves such as Kariega and Sibuya. It might sound like a slapdash way of doing things, but there’s a real chance that you’ll see the Big Five from your car.
Next to the R343 between Kenton and Salem (on the way to Grahamstown) there are several game reserves. Turn left to Kariega or right to Sibuya on the dirt road that intersects with the R343 about 9 km outside Kenton.
I take the Southwell gravel road through Sibuya – the sign at the entrance gate makes it clear: Beware of wild animals! Before long I’ve seen zebra, wildebeest and red hartebeest. Then a couple of giraffe amble across the road just 10 m ahead of me. For free!
GO! says: At Sibuya you can do a day trip that includes a boat cruise, a three-hour game drive, lunch and drinks for R745 per adult. Visit www.sibuya.co.za to find out more.
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Paddle upstream
Here's a chance for good exercise, some time with you're thoughts and the unspoilt vegatation on the river banks.
If I were Steven Spielberg, I’d start shooting my next Jurassic Park film right here. The euphorbia and aloes grow so densely on either side of the Bushmans River that a Tyrannosaurus rex would feel right at home.
You can paddle up the Bushmans River for nearly 32 km. Hire a canoe from Ken and Dee Keens at the Kenton Marina and see how far you get.
On my hour-long paddle I don’t even make a dent in the 32 km, but the sound of cars on the R72 gets more muted as I move upstream.
A few times I almost get stuck on a sandbank and the bulrushes are sometimes bothersome, but these niggles are a small price to pay for good exercise, some time with your thoughts and the unspoilt vegetation on the river banks. Where? Kenton Marina, next to the Bushmans River bridge. Cost: R30 per hour for a single canoe; R40 for a double canoe. Contact: 046 648 1223 or 083 659 8531
GO! says: If you want to paddle further, consider the overnight trip of 13 km to a hut next to the river with a deck overlooking the Kariega Game Reserve. It costs R120 per person per night.
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Comments
Submitted on 1 April 2012 | 01:42:55
A minute saved is a minute ernaed, and this saved hours!
Submitted on 25 February 2011 | 11:45:17
So sad that you didn't visit all the farmstall along the Sunshine Coast, nor
find more things to do before Kenton On Sea.....
Comments